IHT: 9707

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International brands, with a Hong Kong twist
By Alexandra A. Seno
Monday, September 10, 2007

HONG KONG: Alan Chan speaks of his recent collaboration with Salvatore Ferragamo with the kind of language usually used to describe a romance. One of Hong Kong's most distinguished design personalities, he speaks fondly about his long-time admiration for the Italian brand and of their shared passion for tradition. "The chemistry is very important," he says.

Chan's liaison with Ferragamo was part of the 9707 project, initiated by the Hong Kong Design Center, a quasi-governmental operation, to underscore Hong Kong's status as China's capital for world-class design. The project has paired 10 internationally renowned brands with top locally bred or Hong Kong-based creative talents.

The creative offspring in Chan's case: a silk scarf called "Hong Kong My Love." The design brings together symbols from Chinese and European cultures: a red star in a corner, a shoe, the Chinese character for 10, the Ferragamo logo. "My designs are East and West," Chan said, "It is cliché but this is Hong Kong's personality."

Most of the products, which include a range of fashion and home accessories, are scheduled to be finished by December, when the limited editions will go on sale, although the venues and product prices have not been settled.

There also will be an exhibit that will start in Hong Kong, then move to cities in mainland China, the United States and Europe.

The project is linked to the 10th anniversary of Hong Kong's return to Chinese rule - and its name is the actual date of the handover. Overall, 9707 is being touted as an example of the territory's desire to be considered a hub of global style and to retain that reputation.

Kai-yin Lo, a 9707 designer and a member of the design center's board, says, "Hong Kong did well with manufacturing, but that all moved to China where labor is cheaper. Hong Kong's edge is our know-how of the international market. When China can grapple with that, our advantage is lessened."

The brands involved in the project selected their Hong Kong partners. The products are in various stages of development but an early look reveals very personal interpretations of the essence of Hong Kong.

Barney Cheng named his pattern for a 9707 line of LeSportsac bags "Brilliant Beauty." Known for dressing the city's boldface names, he was inspired by a print of a pretty pink flower that he used for a couture client. He says: "I want to talk about Hong Kong people. They sway with the breeze. If there is a typhoon, the flower is still there."

For Richemont-owned Shanghai Tang, Lo is making embroidered shawls, noting that 90 percent of the world's fine cashmere yarn supply comes from mainland China.

Her designs feature Chinese knots, "universal symbols of bonding," and lingzhi, a potent fungus often used by local herbalists. "It represents Hong Kong. Lingzhi is renewable life," she said. "At home, I don't have flowers, I use lingzhi as decoration. I love its arabesques and spirals."

Working with Alessi, the stylish Italian houseware brand, the architect and product designer Gary Chang decided to avoid any obviously Chinese motif. Referring to the cramped living spaces typical in his hometown, he says: "My theme is how to make the most of the limited. It is very Hong Kong yet the idea of tight space is now global."

Chang, who has done coffee and teapots for Alessi before, is creating what he calls a "Treasure Box for Urban Nomads." He envisions a 2-inch, or 5-centimeter, thick case that is the size of an A5 sheet of paper and could function both as a travel accessory (it will fit in most hotel safes) as well as a dish for snacks.

Royal Copenhagen selected Kan Tai-keung. A recipient of a prestigious Chinese design award, he is making "Flora Banquet," a china dinner service adorned with a calligraphic yet contemporary pattern.

Others involved in 9707 include the fashion designer Vivienne Tam, who is doing jewelry for Georg Jensen, and the noted industrial designer Eric Chan, who is working on a chair for Herman Miller. They both grew up in Hong Kong but now are based in New York.

Michael Young of Britain is the only non-Asian of the lot, although he moved to Hong Kong three years ago. The product designer collaborated with Hong Kong watchmakers o.d.m. to create a pared-down timepiece "about the poetry of time and light."

While obvious targets for the 9707 message may be Europe, Japan or the United States, organizers say the most important audience is actually closer to home. "Mainland clients are not so sophisticated but they have the guts to take bold ideas," Alan Chan said.

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